Dating | Weddings

Morning Suit

Grooms: think you're going to get off lightly? Wrong. Your suit will be the most keenly observed and scrutinised outfit you'll ever wear. Get the right one so you'll look like you belong on the catwalk rather than in the litter tray.

This should be the most expensive tackle you ever buy, so make sure that you don't skimp on the shirt and shoes. And please, please invest in new underwear and socks - you don't want a damper on your wedding night, do you?

It may go against everything you know, but this is a time to bring in a little help. In order of preference, you should choose as your adviser a gay male friend, a stylish woman friend or, finally, your mum. You can't see yourself properly from behind, and you might not be the best person to judge how the fabric goes with your skin tone.

BRING OUT YOUR INNER SUPERMODEL

Morning suits are a classic choice for a formal ceremony, black for winter and a lighter more fresh grey for summer weddings. You don't have to do cravats; you can dress it down slightly with a shirt and tie and leave out the top hats if they really make you feel as if you are in fancy dress. A morning suit creates a great sharp line if you feel you have a less than sharp figure. Shine, matt and texture can all be mixed to bring character to a suit, so consider that as a refined way of expressing individuality without going to extremes.

And a key question is how fashionable should you be? You might feel it would be great fun to look back at a wedding that seems incredibly evocative of an era, but then think of a rerun of Top of The Pops from the 1970s - hideous. So think of classic images that are both stylish and able to stand the test of time. Is it Prince Edward's grey herringbone and blue tie combination, or perhaps Clarke Gable's dinner jacket? Or maybe it's the Rat Pack cutting a dash through a Vegas landscape. (Just leave the violin case at home.) Then go hunt out your own equivalent.

You can create a bit of extra flash with special coloured lining or a sharp buttonhole. It is the groom's responsibility to provide the buttonholes, so make an effort to choose something with a bit of pizzazz. Your florist should be able to help you choose an arrangement that will reflect the bride's bouquet. Make sure that it works with your tie (and even your socks, to be super smooth).

Do make sure you talk to your best man about his suit. After all, he will be in a lot of the pictures so if he turns up in a suit he picked up in a charity shop the day before, he could be the cause of your first argument. Although your suit and his shouldn't have to match, they should both be the same colour - brown next to navy is not a complimentary pairing. Obviously this is less of a problem if you are having a very casual wedding.

A STITCH IN TIME

If you have ever wanted your own bespoke suit, now is the one time in your life you can probably justify it but make sure you order in plenty of time. Firstly, you will need to find a reputable tailor: ask snappily dressed friends or colleagues for recommendations. Select a good grade of fabric that will wear well and feel fabulous. Go for the best that you can afford. Choose a style you want, three buttons or four, or a classic suit? You can be as fashionable as you like, but a classic style is the best investment. At this stage, your tailor will take all the required measurements. Now is the time to talk to him about the slightly less than perfect bits you would like to disguise. Tell him how you'd like your suit to fall on your shoulders, waist and shoes. The great thing about a bespoke suit is that you can have it cut to flatter your silhouette. Ask your tailor for all the tips that should work for your frame. You should also consider adding special touches, like a snazzy lining or special buttons. At the final fitting you should be very exacting and demand any little adjustments you feel are needed.

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